June 25,
2007
Dining in First Class
Bruno Jamais Restaurant...
By Jackie
Beach
There are some restaurants one visits primarily for the
experience. Bruno Jamais Restaurant Club is such a place. Tucked
away on the Upper East Side, in a beautifully redesigned
townhouse, the restaurant and late night club offers a sexy,
high class ambience for those desiring both a romantic dinner
and possibly some late night action.
The formidable entranceway provides a lavish welcome– a lovely
woman takes your coat, and you exchange business cards with
Jacques, the tall, handsome maître d’. After being led through a
gleaming hallway filled with expensive wines, a button is
pressed and a gigantic, ornate automated door slides open and
you arrive in the elegant, softly lit dining room complete with
colorful, modern artwork and plush banquettes.
Once seated, you will soon notice servers everywhere – tall,
lean men wearing all black with tucked in ties. If you glance
but a moment, someone inquires about your needs. The sparkling
water rarely falls below half a glass. None of this feels
pretentious or put upon, however. This is seamless, perfect
service.
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Palates are first tempted by toasted brioche and homemade
tomato – roasted red pepper jam, which tastes of freshness
and an interesting spice combination. Next, the amuse bouche,
a savory goat cheese and mushroom miniature spring roll. A
perfect bite to make you salivate for what’s ahead.
You may start with wine, or perhaps a Sexy Back, a martini
made with crème de cassis and vodka, topped with champagne.
There is enough acidity in the champagne to balance the
sweetness of the liqueur.
The staff recommends starting with the lobster brulee, a
house specialty created by Chef John Keller (Nobu, Le
Bernadin). The dish features voluptuous chunks of lobster
and a rich mushroom duxelle with broiled sambal and chive
aioli under a browned crust. A rich dish, a few mouthfuls
satisfy. The wild mushroom and basil risotto provides
another heady appetizer. The mushrooms are perfectly cooked;
each bite is packed with intensity.
Entrées are beautifully plated: the Ahi Tuna “Au Poivre,”
encrusted with Wasabi tobiko and a yuzu vinaigrette, arrives
solo on a plate accompanied by a small gratin dish of
sautéed asparagus and shitake mushrooms. The seared fish
disintegrates in your mouth. You must try the Scallop Four
Ways: thinly sliced and flash seared w/ ginger and scallion,
floating in delicate meuniere sauce, perched atop tender
asparagus tops and finished with American caviar, and
flavored with a bacon vinaigrette with parsnip puree &
truffle sauce.
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Music you didn’t really notice before starts to play a larger part. It’s
now past 10 P.M. and more people are arriving, crowding around the bar.
The clientele has a wide age range and consists of mostly men in
lightweight suits and women in summer dresses. There is the lady in a
short, teal, skin-tight dress purring up to older men and shaking her
tail feather to the music, but her deviation only adds to the
increasingly electric vibe.
Dessert is set in front of you-- chocolate soufflé served with both
heavy cream and ice cream and smelling so strongly of chocolate it seems
a crime. Glossy crème brulee arrives with its perfectly ripe berries and
torched sugar. If you’re lucky, there is also a crème brulee martini,
tasting of vodka, Buttershots, and a touch of milk. The result is a
sweet concoction, but not overly creamy.
As the music choices become more energized, the lights dim and the
restaurant prepares for its chameleon change to nightclub. Bruno Jamais’
vision for his UES establishment was for a place with both fine dining
and a lively dance club after hours. His wish fulfilled, people start
filing in and filling up the space as part of the dinner crowd leaves
and the other part settles in for a long evening of dancing and
carousing. Luckily, a late night menu featuring items such as pommes
frites, Croque Madame, and Tuna Tartare is available until 2am.
After shaking Jacques’ hand, you retrieve your coat from the lovely
hostess and she places it into your arms.
“Voilá!” she says.
Links:
BrunoJamais
Jackie
Beach
And Then What
Happened?...

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