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June 25, 2007
Dining in First Class

Bruno Jamais Restaurant...

By Jackie Beach


There are some restaurants one visits primarily for the experience. Bruno Jamais Restaurant Club is such a place. Tucked away on the Upper East Side, in a beautifully redesigned townhouse, the restaurant and late night club offers a sexy, high class ambience for those desiring both a romantic dinner and possibly some late night action.

The formidable entranceway provides a lavish welcome– a lovely woman takes your coat, and you exchange business cards with Jacques, the tall, handsome maître d’. After being led through a gleaming hallway filled with expensive wines, a button is pressed and a gigantic, ornate automated door slides open and you arrive in the elegant, softly lit dining room complete with colorful, modern artwork and plush banquettes.

Once seated, you will soon notice servers everywhere – tall, lean men wearing all black with tucked in ties. If you glance but a moment, someone inquires about your needs. The sparkling water rarely falls below half a glass. None of this feels pretentious or put upon, however. This is seamless, perfect service.

Katwalk

Bruno Jamais
24 East 81st Street
New York, NY
212-396-3444





Palates are first tempted by toasted brioche and homemade tomato – roasted red pepper jam, which tastes of freshness and an interesting spice combination. Next, the amuse bouche, a savory goat cheese and mushroom miniature spring roll. A perfect bite to make you salivate for what’s ahead.

You may start with wine, or perhaps a Sexy Back, a martini made with crème de cassis and vodka, topped with champagne. There is enough acidity in the champagne to balance the sweetness of the liqueur.

The staff recommends starting with the lobster brulee, a house specialty created by Chef John Keller (Nobu, Le Bernadin). The dish features voluptuous chunks of lobster and a rich mushroom duxelle with broiled sambal and chive aioli under a browned crust. A rich dish, a few mouthfuls satisfy. The wild mushroom and basil risotto provides another heady appetizer. The mushrooms are perfectly cooked; each bite is packed with intensity.

Entrées are beautifully plated: the Ahi Tuna “Au Poivre,” encrusted with Wasabi tobiko and a yuzu vinaigrette, arrives solo on a plate accompanied by a small gratin dish of sautéed asparagus and shitake mushrooms. The seared fish disintegrates in your mouth. You must try the Scallop Four Ways: thinly sliced and flash seared w/ ginger and scallion, floating in delicate meuniere sauce, perched atop tender asparagus tops and finished with American caviar, and flavored with a bacon vinaigrette with parsnip puree & truffle sauce.

 
   
Music you didn’t really notice before starts to play a larger part. It’s now past 10 P.M. and more people are arriving, crowding around the bar. The clientele has a wide age range and consists of mostly men in lightweight suits and women in summer dresses. There is the lady in a short, teal, skin-tight dress purring up to older men and shaking her tail feather to the music, but her deviation only adds to the increasingly electric vibe.

Dessert is set in front of you-- chocolate soufflé served with both heavy cream and ice cream and smelling so strongly of chocolate it seems a crime. Glossy crème brulee arrives with its perfectly ripe berries and torched sugar. If you’re lucky, there is also a crème brulee martini, tasting of vodka, Buttershots, and a touch of milk. The result is a sweet concoction, but not overly creamy.

As the music choices become more energized, the lights dim and the restaurant prepares for its chameleon change to nightclub. Bruno Jamais’ vision for his UES establishment was for a place with both fine dining and a lively dance club after hours. His wish fulfilled, people start filing in and filling up the space as part of the dinner crowd leaves and the other part settles in for a long evening of dancing and carousing. Luckily, a late night menu featuring items such as pommes frites, Croque Madame, and Tuna Tartare is available until 2am.

After shaking Jacques’ hand, you retrieve your coat from the lovely hostess and she places it into your arms.
“Voilá!” she says.
 

Links:
BrunoJamais
Jackie Beach
And Then What Happened?...

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